Showing posts with label Spiti. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Spiti. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Lessons from Ladakh

I had pictured myself in Ladakh multiple number of times before I actually visited the place. Scenes of me hauling the raft towards the Zanskar as my friends gear up to face the new foundland with scenes of me readying to trek up across a snow clad landscape - I was the heroine of my story, fit and raring to go! Only in reality, the scene was quite different than the myriad thoughts the over fertile mind had strewn together. I was struggling to decide on between the ten day visit to Ladakh via Kargil whether I should really continue the journey, would I be able to have fun while nursing an injured leg and whether I was imagining the symptoms of AMS (acute mountain sickness) owing to the extensive research on the single most topic I had read about, before the trip actually commenced. I am glad I stayed! If not the best, the journey across Srinagar-Kargil-Ladakh-Lahaul-Delhi with the motley bunch of 4 has been one of the most fulfilling ones in my life.

Having visited Spiti earlier, the landscape of Ladakh did disappoint some of us a bit, however the varied experiences we had right from getting stuck in a landslide while passing Zoji La , to the special bond that is now made with our driver/guide/now friend Lopzang Tsering, to plucking the most delicious apricots from trees at Alchi , to the wildlife that we chanced upon - made everything worth the while. Be it sighting two wolves near the Pangong Tso, or tailing the Himalayan Red Fox across Chang La or chancing upon a land full of marmots, we got really lucky!Getting stuck at Keylong, Lahaul, while on the way back to Manali because of a rather different reason also needs a special mention here.

The ever helpful nature of the Ladakhi locals has had a lasting impression on all those who visited the mighty places with us. It has also reaffirmed my belief that people from the hills are much more in sync with nature as compared to us people from plains.

Time and again, traveling has made me realize, see my place as a mortal human in a more natural order. It is much more grand and functional than I could ever imagine. Stand in front of the daunting mountain, lie down facing the enormous sky, see the never ending ocean  -  it's the most humbling experience ever. 

These words by Wendell Berry have never made more sense to me than today - "Always in big woods when you leave familiar ground and step off alone into a new place there will be, along with the feelings of curiosity and excitement, a little nagging of dread. It is the ancient fear of the unknown, and it is your first bond with the wilderness you are going into. You are undertaking the first experience of our essential loneliness, for nobody can discover the world for anybody else. It is only after we have discovered it for ourselves that it becomes a common ground and a common bond, and we cease to be alone." 
You can view some videos of the different landscapes we came across the sojourn here - a collection of vine videos that i attempted. A ten day trip to Ladakh certainly doesn't do justice, neither to the place, nor to you. I plan to go back sometime, next year with more fitness packed and more time to explore the mountains, I hear the Zanskar calling me already.
Until next time - Julley :-)





Wolf and Himalayan Red Fox - Picture Copyright - Shardul Bist


Himalayan Marmot - Picture Copyright - Shardul Bist

Lopzang Tsering (right) - Picture Copyright - Kulshreshtha Gaurav



Lopzang clearing the rocks at Zoji La - Picture Copyright - Shardul Bist


Locals at Kargil


Crescent - as seen from Drass War Memorial on the occassion of Eid (also seen in the pic - Tiger Hill - the last peak from right)


Can't miss out the pic with dogs - Picture Copyright - Kulshreshtha Gaurav

Friday, July 20, 2012

Ecosphere : Be The Change You Want To See


Thought this write up (for Mahindra Rise) would be relevant to the blog. Not personal, neither intense - it's about some people who are striving to bring about change in the desert mountain valley of Spiti, Himachal Pradesh, India. More on this trip later. You can also read it here


Ecosphere: Be the Change You Want to See

Posted By: Megha Chaturvedi|Dated: February 17, 2012
 

There are those who travel and those who don’t just travel; there are those who change and those who effect change.  In the relatively unknown, desert mountain valley of Spiti, Ecosphere belongs to the latter category.

Ecosphere is an extraordinary, award-winning social enterprise with a focus on conservation and responsible tourism in the Spiti Valley. Started by Ishita Khanna, Sunil Chauhan, Sonam Angdui and Cherring Norbu, Ecosphere promotes sustainable development by harnessing solar technology in the valley.
Located high in the Himalayan Mountains, the Spiti Valley is dotted by vast stretches of white desert. A sparsely populated area in the north-eastern part of Himachal Pradesh, it spans an area of approximately 8000 sq km and is flanked by Tibet & Ladakh. The area endures a 6-month-long winter, during which temperatures fall to as low as -30 degrees centigrade. Its high altitude (the average habitable altitude is 3700 meters above sea level) and extreme winter climate result in sparse vegetation.
A scarcity of wood used for fuel, which must be transported into the valley, “results in high emissions of greenhouse gases and also leads to an increased dependence of the locals on the government,” says Sunil Chauhan, co-owner of Ecosphere.
“The locals spend two to four hours a day [burning] wood, coal, dung and other bushes to cook, heat water and warm their houses. This leads to pressure on the atmosphere, contributing to global warming and climate change. The shortage of fuel (bush and dung) and the high price of imported conventional fuel results in a situation of energy vulnerability.”
But the amount of sunlight in the valley offers many possibilities, says Sunil, who took to trekking from the time he was 18. “We saw how this extremely cold valley has an abundance of sunny days, almost 250 days a year. Sun was the most natural resource we could use. The usage of solar passive technology has proved to be a boon here.”
The houses in the valley have windows, floors and walls that are designed to gather, stock up, and distribute solar energy as heat in the winter and to reduce excessive heat during the summer.
Ecosphere has also worked on building green houses that can be used to grow vegetation. Like wood, food must either be transported to the valley or procured by villagers who travel long distances. To promote self-sufficiency, Ecosphere has “deployed improved green houses that make it possible to cultivate vegetables in extreme climatic conditions and thereby also reduce the carbon footprint,” says Sunil.
Ecosphere has also developed a new design based on the use of local materials such as mud brick, local wood, and straw, which allows farmers to save costs.  Reports suggest that farmers of the Spiti Valley, most of them women, were able to generate Rs. 1500 per month and save an equal amount of money with a 50 sq m greenhouse and increase their income by 50%.  Ecosphere has so far built over 50 green houses in the Lahaul & Spiti valley and another 25 in Lahaul.
As a research and cultural centre for Buddhists, Spiti is also home to monasteries and nunneries. “We have also worked with monasteries in Spiti and Kinnaur by facilitating solar water heaters. They are at times transformed [into a] community bathing area as well as [a] classroom for teaching,” Sunil says.
Ecosphere has also helped by setting up subsidized solar power plants in these areas. Villagers pay a monthly charge and gain from the power plants and wind mills.
“Over 300 families have been benefited by the solar passive houses and improved greenhouses. Over 12 institutions (like monasteries, nunneries, old age home, girls’ hostels) have been supported with the solar passive works, greenhouses, solar baths and solar geysers,” says Ishita, another co-founder of Ecosphere.
“[In addition], two villages (over 60 families and one monastery) have been electrified using solar energy, and a hybrid of a solar, wind and a pedal generator hybrid.”
Ishita, an Ashoka fellow, was conferred the title of MTV Youth Icon in 2008 and received the Real Heroes Award from CNN IBN.
Effective change is change effected, according to Ecosphere’s philosophy. The next time you travel, what change would you like to see or be?
About the Author:
Megha Chaturvedi fled the corporate world in India almost 2 years ago. Since then she has explored various quaint towns across India and crossed a Himalayan glacier in order to study rural SME’s. In the past she has had stints at Daily News & Analysis (DNA), ANI – Reuters and also worked for a digital brand solutions agency. A connoisseur of art, dance and music, she has recently founded a destination branding agency.
The views expressed above are those of the author, and not necessarily representative of the views of the Mahindra Group.